Metal is in my blood. My ancestors were coppersmiths, sheet metal workers and artists. I am a jeweler. I’m inspired by nature and its signals of growth, rebirth and change. The Japanese refer to the observation and appreciation for the cycle of life as wabi sabi. It’s a simple aesthetic, one that appreciates the beauty in imperfection and the elimination of the non-essential. It's rustic, subtle and treads lightly on the planet. This has been a guiding principle in my work and my life.

I believe that social and environmental responsibility should take a more prominent (and permanent) role in the fashion industry. There is an emerging slow-fashion movement based in sustainability and ethical values instead of disposability and frivolous waste. I have based my career on these same beliefs and it’s exciting to see such a large community of designers focusing on this today.

Incorporating ethically sourced, recycled and vintage objects into my work is a natural part of my construction process. For me, ethical sourcing involves a transparent supply chain (not unlike the slow food movement - where there is a visible link from seed to table). The stones that I work with must have a clear and trackable mine to market custody chain. In order to achieve this, I work with stones from small, family owned mines, as well as individual rockhounds that hand collect, cut and polish the materials themselves. I also do a lot of my own stone cutting from rock found in the 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s.

It is possible to have a beautifully designed piece of jewelry made with interesting materials whose cultivation does not fund corrupt organizations or promote unfair labor practices. I do not use conflict or questionable gemstones in my work. It's extremely difficult to assess whether certain stones have entered the international trade legally or if their sale is linked to environmental devastation or social and ethical issues like child labor, violence against women, smuggling and corruption. Because there is no universal standard in place for labeling ethical gems at this time, I will not use a stone in my jewelry unless I know its provenance (history).

I use 100% recycled precious metals from Hoover & Strong. All of their precious metals are recycled from the Earth’s existing metal supply; they do not buy metals from mining companies. In the studio, I recycle all of my scrap metal and have a very active "recycling program” which encourages clients to send me their broken, unworn or unloved jewelry so I can refine it. I offer a fair trade-in value and clients receive credit towards the purchase of new jewelry.

I educate myself about the materials I work with to understand where they come from and whose lives they may impact. I’m always exploring more conscious and sustainable options for my jewelry materials.

BACKGROUND

Kirsten graduated in 1995 from the University of the Arts in Philadelphia with a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree. Her studies included various craft techniques, with a primary focus on jewelry fabrication, casting, welding and metalworking. She was taught the art of stone cutting while living in Los Angeles. She has established her professional studio in San Francisco.

Kirsten believes that positive change is happening in the industry regarding the use of ethical materials. The number of jewelers demanding recycled metal and ethically sourced stones is growing. She knows that asking questions, voicing concerns to suppliers and keeping the dialog open within the jewelry community are all crucial steps in bringing about these changes. Sharing ideas, sources and links is also important and that's why she communicates her perspective and research on her personal blog and maintains an extensive list of eco resources.

Kirsten knows that studio jewelers and metalsmiths have the power to influence the mining industry. She uses her voice to aid mining reform efforts and to help generate industry demand for responsibly sourced metals. She is part of a large community of jewelers involved with Ethical Metalsmiths, a non-profit organization dedicated to connecting people to responsibly sourced metals and gemstones. She was a guest contributer to their newsletter, and wrote an article sharing her insights and research regarding ethical sourcing.

For the past few years Kirsten has been involved with Global Green USA, a national environmental organization, by donating several pieces of jewelry to the silent auction at Global Green’s “Gorgeous and Green” fashion show and fundraiser, as well as the 10th Annual Millennium Awards. Proceeds from these events support Global Green USA and its efforts to rebuild a sustainable New Orleans and advance green affordable housing, solar and high performance schools in San Francisco, Los Angeles and cities across the country. Kirsten just finished filming with the Sundance Channel and Josh Dorfman for an episode on the second season of The Lazy Environmentalist. She is the contributing eco-jewelry expert, sharing information about ethical material options and sourcing.